- For mounting the foot:
- Into brick or concrete: 2 x Sleeve Anchors
- Into wood: 2 x Coach screws
- For mounting the C58 base plate:
- Onto wood: 2 x Coach screws + 2 x Nylon UX universal plug
- Onto concrete / brick: 2 x Masonry screws
- Allen key (included with the handrail kits)
- Rubber mallet / Hammer (for plugs)
- Drill / Hammer drill
- Confirm that you have all required parts.
- When installing plugs, place rag or cardboard over plug and gently hammer into place.
- If installing into concrete or brick, vacuum out debris from drilled out holes before inserting sleeve anchors.
- If you plan on painting your rail, do so before assembling.
- Insert post into 62-7. Tighten set screws loosely.
- Line up assembled post to desired location. Test grab rail with post, then mark holes for the 62-7 and C58.
- Disassemble the post and drill the holes for the 62-7 and C58. Secure 62-7 to surface and C58 to wall with recommended hardware.
- Insert post into 62-7 and add socket of 55-7 to top of post. Tighten set screws loosely.
- Slide one end of grab rail into the 55-7 on post at desired location and insert other end into C58-7 on wall. Tighten set screws once complete.
- Align flange and mark holes - Set the base flanges where they need to go and mark the holes with a marker.
- Dimple holes with a nail set - Before drilling, make a dent in the surface to prevent the drill bit from drifting.
- Drill holes for the anchor - Use a hammer drill and the appropriate masonry bit to make a hole for the anchor. Follow the instructions for drilling the hole from the anchor manufacturer.
- Remove dust from holes - Use a air hose or vaccum cleaner to get the debris out of the holes.
- Attach flanges with anchors - How you will do this depends on anchor style. But if you use hammer-in anchors, then put a nut on the end of the threads to protect the threads while you hammer the anchor into place.
- Cut off excess bolt - If you have excess bolt that is exposed after tightening the anchors, use a hack saw to remove the excess.
- Align flange - Set the base flanges where they need to go and mark the holes with a marker.
- Drill pilot holes - Drill a pilot hole appropriate for the size lag screw that you are using.
- Attach flange with screws - Use a socket set to screw the lag screw into place.
- Align bracket and mark holes - Begin by placing the bracket against the wall and marking the holes.
- Drill pilot holes - Drill a Pilot hole for the screws that will be used to attach the brackets. A hammer drill will be required if you are drilling into concrete or masonry.
- Attach brackets to wall - Attach the brackets with the appropriate kind of screw for the material that you are anchoring into.
- Attaching directly to the fitting - Some railings were meant to slip through a hole in a fitting. If this is case, then the job is easy! Simply slip the tube through the hole in the fitting and tighten down the set screw.
- Drilling into tube - Some railing brackets are designed to connect to the tube with screws. If this is the case, then make pilot holes with a drill before attempting to screw into the tube. Even if your screws are "self-drilling" we recommend making a pilot hole. Pilot holes can be made by aligning the grab rail on the brackets and using a marker to mark each hole. Once the hole is marked, take the railing off the brackets and pre-drill the holes in a stable location. After you have made the pilot holes, set the railing on the brackets and attach with the appropriate screws.
SR-55C58 is a wall-to-floor mounted handrail kit that suits stair angles between 20°-60°. This steel railing connects to the wall at one end and then to the floor and has no open ends, making it perfect for your home entrance.
A simple outdoor handrail kit suitable for angles between 20°-60°
This is an easy-to-install handrail that mounts to stair steps with an angle between 20°-60° and has no open ends. Available in a silver galvanised steel finish.
A safe handrail with a rounded angle
This handrail design is well suited for elderly or disabled residents who want to easily access their gardens. The 55 fitting helps create a rounded angle which is safer than our other open end handrail kits. This means that there is no danger of clothes getting caught or accidentally bumping into any handrail open ends.
Perfect for outdoor use
This railing kit uses industrial strength galvanised steel tube and hot-dip Kee Klamp fittings. This means that our handrails will withstand even the harshest weather conditions, with no signs of corrosion.
Our rail will ensure that you have a sturdy surface to grab onto anytime you go out in the garden or leave the house.
Designed to last decades
This is not a flimsy handrail that you need to replace often. When installed, you can rest assured that it will be there for you whenever you need it. Using industrial strength tube and fittings, the rail is designed to last decades without rusting or bending.
Quick and easy installation
The SR-55C58 is one of our easiest handrails to install. The fittings slide onto the uprights and are tightened up using an allen key (included with our kits). A typical installation should not take longer than an hour.
Not the handrail you are looking for?
Let our team help you design a rail that suits your requirements! We use galvanised steel or aluminium uprights to build sturdy rails that will help you gain access to your home or garden. Just get in touch with our team!
The SR-55C58 handrail kit includes all the tube and fittings you require to put the rail together. An allen key is also provided with the kit. Fixings (screws and bolt) are not provided.
What you need to know
How do I measure correctly?
Remember what your Dad told you? 'Measure Twice, Cut Once' You know the the phrase!
Figuring out the measurements for your handrail requires some attention to detail. There are two ways to figure it out the dimension for your grab rail and how you do it probably depends on how much you like maths.
This simple way to do this is to have someone stand at the bottom of the steps holding the end of the measuring tape. Walk to the top of the stairs while each of you hold the measuring tape 1m off the ground. Record the length when you have positioned the ends where you want the rail to begin and end.
The mathematical way of calculating would be to measure the rise and run of the steps and then calculate the length of the railing by the following formula:
Railing Length = √ height2 + length2
The square root of the height squared plus the length squared will give you the proper length of your rail.
What sort of prepping do I need to do?
Whether you are mounting to the wall or to ground, be sure that the area is cleaned so that it can receive the base flange or railing bracket without obstruction.
What hardware do I need to install this rail?
What hardware to use when installing a Kee Klamp handrail
For installing this rail, you will need the following additional items (not included with the kit):
How do I install the SR-55C58 handrail?
Step by step instructions
How do I mount base flanges?
Anchoring to concrete or masonry
Anchoring to wood
How do I mount wall railing brackets?
How do I attach the uprights?
In most cases this is as simple as slipping the upright into the base flange and tightening the set screws in the fittings. Use a level to ensure that the post is plumb.
How do I attach brackets to the uprights?
This will be different for each kind of railing. The key here is not to attach the fitting too tightly. Attach the bracket or fitting just enough, so that adjustments can be made. You will probably not want to make your final tightening until after the railing has been attached.
How do I attach the railing to brackets?
When it comes to the differences in the handrail kits, attaching the rail to the handrail brackets is where there is the most diversity. Some railings will be much easier to attach than others.
How do I tap in the tube caps?
Once your entire handrail is assembled, you'll want to tap the tube caps into any exposed ends of the rails and posts. It is best to do this with a rubber mallet. If you don't have a rubber mallet, then cover the cap with a piece of cardboard to protect the metal from scratches while you tap it in with a standard hammer.
|Dimensional Weight (kgs)||N/A|
|Installation Difficulty||Easiest - No tube cutting or tube drilling required.|
|Handrail Type||Slip-On - Fittings wrap around grab rail.|
|Rali End||Wall / Post|
|Mounting angle||Standard Stair Angles (30-60 degrees)|
|Tube Drilling Required?||No|
|Tube Cutting Required?||No|
|Mounting Style||Base & Wall Flange|