- Align flange and mark holes - Set the base flanges where they need to go and mark the holes with a marker.
- Dimple holes with a nail set - Before drilling, make a dent in the surface to prevent the drill bit from drifting.
- Drill holes for the anchor - Use a hammer drill and the appropriate masonry bit to make a hole for the anchor. Follow the instructions for drilling the hole from the anchor manufacturer.
- Remove dust from holes - Use a air hose or vaccum cleaner to get the debris out of the holes.
- Attach flanges with anchors - How you will do this depends on anchor style. But if you use hammer-in anchors, then put a nut on the end of the threads to protect the threads while you hammer the anchor into place.
- Cut off excess bolt - If you have excess bolt that is exposed after tightening the anchors, use a hack saw to remove the excess.
- Align flange - Set the base flanges where they need to go and mark the holes with a marker.
- Drill pilot holes - Drill a pilot hole appropriate for the size lag screw that you are using.
- Attach flange with screws - Use a socket set to screw the lag screw into place.
- Align bracket and mark holes - Begin by placing the bracket against the wall and marking the holes.
- Drill pilot holes - Drill a Pilot hole for the screws that will be used to attach the brackets. A hammer drill will be required if you are drilling into concrete or masonry.
- Attach brackets to wall - Attach the brackets with the appropriate kind of screw for the material that you are anchoring into.
- Attaching directly to the fitting - Some railings were meant to slip through a hole in a fitting. If this is case, then the job is easy! Simply slip the tube through the hole in the fitting and tighten down the set screw.
- Drilling into tube - Some railing brackets are designed to connect to the tube with screws. If this is the case, then make pilot holes with a drill before attempting to screw into the tube. Even if your screws are "self-drilling" we recommend making a pilot hole. Pilot holes can be made by aligning the grab rail on the brackets and using a marker to mark each hole. Once the hole is marked, take the railing off the brackets and pre-drill the holes in a stable location. After you have made the pilot holes, set the railing on the brackets and attach with the appropriate screws.
SR-518570 is a smooth, continuous handrail kit designed to mount to the side of a wall on one end and to the floor on the other. Perfect for accessing the garden. Suitable for stairs of any angle.
A handrail kit suitable for any angle
This is a versatile handrail that can be installed on stairs and surfaces of any angle. It mounts to flat walls on one end and to the floor at the other. Available in a silver galvanised steel finish.
Perfect for outdoor use
This handrail kit uses industrial strength galvanised steel tube and fittings. This means that it will withstand even the harshest weather conditions, with no signs of corrosion.
Designed to last decades
This is not a flimsy handrail that you need to replace often. When installed, you can rest assured that it will be there for you whenever you need it. Using industrial strength tube and fittings, the structure is designed to last decades without rusting or bending.
Not the handrail you are looking for?
Let our team help you design a rail that suits your requirements! We use galvanised steel or aluminium uprights to build sturdy rails that will help you gain access to your home or garden. Just get in touch with our team!
The SR-518570 handrail kit includes all the tube and fittings you require to put the rail together. An allen key is also included with the kit. Fixings (screws and bolt) are not provided. Wooden posts not included.
What you need to know
How do I measure correctly?
Remember what your Dad told you? 'Measure Twice, Cut Once' You know the the phrase!
Figuring out the measurements for your handrail requires some attention to detail. There are two ways to figure it out the dimension for your grab rail and how you do it probably depends on how much you like maths.
This simple way to do this is to have someone stand at the bottom of the steps holding the end of the measuring tape. Walk to the top of the stairs while each of you hold the measuring tape 1m off the ground. Record the length when you have positioned the ends where you want the rail to begin and end.
The mathematical way of calculating would be to measure the rise and run of the steps and then calculate the length of the railing by the following formula:
Railing Length = √ height2 + length2
The square root of the height squared plus the length squared will give you the proper length of your rail.
What sort of prepping do I need to do?
Whether you are mounting to the wall or to ground, be sure that the area is cleaned so that it can receive the base flange or railing bracket without obstruction.
How do I mount base flanges?
Anchoring to concrete or masonry
Anchoring to wood
How do I mount wall railing brackets?
How do I attach the uprights?
In most cases this is as simple as slipping the upright into the base flange and tightening the set screws in the fittings. Use a level to ensure that the post is plumb.
How do I attach brackets to the uprights?
This will be different for each kind of railing. The key here is not to attach the fitting too tightly. Attach the bracket or fitting just enough, so that adjustments can be made. You will probably not want to make your final tightening until after the railing has been attached.
How do I attach the railing to brackets?
When it comes to the differences in the handrail kits, attaching the rail to the handrail brackets is where there is the most diversity. Some railings will be much easier to attach than others.
How do I tap in the tube caps?
Once your entire handrail is assembled, you'll want to tap the tube caps into any exposed ends of the rails and posts. It is best to do this with a rubber mallet. If you don't have a rubber mallet, then cover the cap with a piece of cardboard to protect the metal from scratches while you tap it in with a standard hammer.
|Dimensional Weight (kgs)||N/A|
|Installation Difficulty||Easy - Tube drilling required. Tube cutting possibly required.|
|Handrail Type||Smooth - Fittings do not wrap around the grab rail.|
|Rali End||Open Ended|
|Mounting angle||Any Angle|
|Tube Drilling Required?||Yes|
|Tube Cutting Required?||No|
|Mounting Style||Base Flange|