Outdoor black handrail kit for stairs, slopes or flat surfaces (SR-BLK518)

Remember what your Dad told you? 'Measure Twice, Cut Once' You know the the phrase!

Figuring out the measurements for your handrail requires some attention to detail. There are two ways to figure it out the dimension for your grab rail and how you do it probably depends on how much you like maths.

This simple way to do this is to have someone stand at the bottom of the steps holding the end of the measuring tape. Walk to the top of the stairs while each of you hold the measuring tape 1m off the ground. Record the length when you have positioned the ends where you want the rail to begin and end.

The mathematical way of calculating would be to measure the rise and run of the steps and then calculate the length of the railing by the following formula:

Railing Length = √ height2 + length2

The square root of the height squared plus the length squared will give you the proper length of your rail.

Whether you are mounting to the wall or to ground, be sure that the area is cleaned so that it can receive the base flange or railing bracket without obstruction.

What hardware to use when installing a Kee Klamp handrail

For installing this rail, you will need the following additional items (not included with the kit):

• For mounting the feet:
• Into brick or concrete: 4 x Sleeve Anchors
• Into wood: 4 x Coach screws
• For attaching the rail to the uprights: Self-tapping screws

Download the 'Hardware instructions sheet' for more information

Step-by-step instructions

Recommended tools

• Allen key (included with the handrail kits)
• Rubber mallet / Hammer (for plugs)
• Drill / Hammer drill
• Wrench

Installation tips

• Confirm that you have all required parts.
• When installing plugs, place rag or cardboard over plug and gently hammer into place.
• If installing into concrete or brick, vacuum out debris from drilled out holes before inserting sleeve anchors.
• If you plan on painting your rail, do so before assembling.

Step by step instructions

• Insert posts into 62-8’s. Tighten set screws loosely.
• Line up assembled posts to desired location. Test grab bar with posts, then mark holes for the 62-8’s.
• Disassemble the posts and secure 62-8’s to surface.
• Insert posts into 62-8’s and add socket of 10-840C to top of posts. Insert 518’s in 10-840C’s. Tighten set screws loosely.
• Line up grab rail at desired location. Mark and drill pilot holes for securing grab rail to 518’s.
• Attach grab rail with self-tapping screws (available as an add-on for the kit) and adjust as needed. Tighten set screws once complete.
• Cover plugs with a rag or cardboard and hammer into place.

Anchoring to concrete or masonry

• Align flange and mark holes - Set the base flanges where they need to go and mark the holes with a marker.
• Dimple holes with a nail set - Before drilling, make a dent in the surface to prevent the drill bit from drifting.
• Drill holes for the anchor - Use a hammer drill and the appropriate masonry bit to make a hole for the anchor. Follow the instructions for drilling the hole from the anchor manufacturer.
• Remove dust from holes - Use a air hose or vaccum cleaner to get the debris out of the holes.
• Attach flanges with anchors - How you will do this depends on anchor style. But if you use hammer-in anchors, then put a nut on the end of the threads to protect the threads while you hammer the anchor into place.
• Cut off excess bolt - If you have excess bolt that is exposed after tightening the anchors, use a hack saw to remove the excess.

Anchoring to wood

• Align flange - Set the base flanges where they need to go and mark the holes with a marker.
• Drill pilot holes - Drill a pilot hole appropriate for the size lag screw that you are using.
• Attach flange with screws - Use a socket set to screw the lag screw into place.

• Align bracket and mark holes - Begin by placing the bracket against the wall and marking the holes.
• Drill pilot holes - Drill a Pilot hole for the screws that will be used to attach the brackets. A hammer drill will be required if you are drilling into concrete or masonry.
• Attach brackets to wall - Attach the brackets with the appropriate kind of screw for the material that you are anchoring into.

In most cases this is as simple as slipping the upright into the base flange and tightening the set screws in the fittings. Use a level to ensure that the post is plumb.

This will be different for each kind of railing. The key here is not to attach the fitting too tightly. Attach the bracket or fitting just enough, so that adjustments can be made. You will probably not want to make your final tightening until after the railing has been attached.

When it comes to the differences in the handrail kits, attaching the rail to the handrail brackets is where there is the most diversity. Some railings will be much easier to attach than others.

• Attaching directly to the fitting - Some railings were meant to slip through a hole in a fitting. If this is case, then the job is easy! Simply slip the tube through the hole in the fitting and tighten down the set screw.
• Drilling into tube - Some railing brackets are designed to connect to the tube with screws. If this is the case, then make pilot holes with a drill before attempting to screw into the tube. Even if your screws are "self-drilling" we recommend making a pilot hole. Pilot holes can be made by aligning the grab rail on the brackets and using a marker to mark each hole. Once the hole is marked, take the railing off the brackets and pre-drill the holes in a stable location. After you have made the pilot holes, set the railing on the brackets and attach with the appropriate screws.

Once your entire handrail is assembled, you'll want to tap the tube caps into any exposed ends of the rails and posts. It is best to do this with a rubber mallet. If you don't have a rubber mallet, then cover the cap with a piece of cardboard to protect the metal from scratches while you tap it in with a standard hammer.