Our outdoor handrail kits bring safety to your home and garden

Yes, our handrail kits are suitable for installation on stairs.

Depending on the stair material (concrete, wood, brick), you will need various fixings to ensure that the handrail kits are mounted correctly.

If you know the angle of the stairs, go for a fixed-angle handrail kit. If you do not know the stairs' angle or are unsure of it, choose a variable angle option.

Yes, they are. Depending on your layout, you can use one of our floor, wall-to-floor or wall mounted styles to help you enjoy your garden all year round.

Yes! Because they are made of heavy-duty materials such as galvanised steel or aluminium, our metal handrails are perfect for use outside or inside the house. With reasonable care, they can last decades without bending or rusting.

Depending on your layout, you will be looking at either one of the following categories:

• Floor mounted – all uprights mount to the ground (whereas this is a flat surface, a flight or stairs or a ramp)
• Wall to floor mounted – one end mounts to a wall and the other one to the floor, with the help of an upright
• Wall mounted – the handrail is fully mounted to a wall

Once you know what type of surface you need to mount the handrail onto, continue exploring our existing kits to choose a suitable option. You can select a rail depending on the angle of your stairs (fixed or variable angle), on the material (steel vs aluminium), the ending (open or rounded endings) or whether you need an inline or an offset surface.

If you are ever unsure, get in touch with our advisers. We will be happy to assist!

Our rails are fairly easy to install as they do not require any welding or complicated tools. All kits come with the relevant grab rails cut to the size you need and use fittings that attach to the tube using screws. All you need is an Allen key to tighten the screws up.

Watch this video to see how we install one of our popular handrail kits for stairs:

Our handrail kits are available in the original silver colour, with ST-BLK518 being the only rail we have available in a black powder-coated finish.

Our handrails can be used by anyone with reduced mobility or who just needs a bit of help navigating a flight of stairs or a ramp. However, for wheelchair users, we would recommend a DDA handrail with a mid bar. Read more about DDA

Yes, they are. Depending on each person’s needs, you can choose a suitable accessibility handrail from our extended handrail kit range. If none of the rails on our website suit you, please get in touch and our friendly advisers will be able to recommend a system.

Remember what your Dad told you? 'Measure Twice, Cut Once' You know the the phrase!

Figuring out the measurements for your handrail requires some attention to detail. There are two ways to figure it out the dimension for your grab rail and how you do it probably depends on how much you like maths.

This simple way to do this is to have someone stand at the bottom of the steps holding the end of the measuring tape. Walk to the top of the stairs while each of you hold the measuring tape 1m off the ground. Record the length when you have positioned the ends where you want the rail to begin and end.

The mathematical way of calculating would be to measure the rise and run of the steps and then calculate the length of the railing by the following formula:

Railing Length = √ height2 + length2

The square root of the height squared plus the length squared will give you the proper length of your rail.

Whether you are mounting to the wall or to the ground, be sure that the area is cleaned so that it can receive the base flange or railing bracket without obstruction.

Anchoring to concrete or masonry

• Align flange and mark holes - Set the base flanges where they need to go and mark the holes with a marker.
• Dimple holes with a nail set - Before drilling, make a dent in the surface to prevent the drill bit from drifting.
• Drill holes for the anchor - Use a hammer drill and the appropriate masonry bit to make a hole for the anchor. Follow the instructions for drilling the hole from the anchor manufacturer.
• Remove dust from holes - Use a air hose or vaccum cleaner to get the debris out of the holes.
• Attach flanges with anchors - How you will do this depends on anchor style. But if you use hammer-in anchors, then put a nut on the end of the threads to protect the threads while you hammer the anchor into place.
• Cut off excess bolt - If you have excess bolt that is exposed after tightening the anchors, use a hack saw to remove the excess.

Anchoring to wood

• Align flange - Set the base flanges where they need to go and mark the holes with a marker.
• Drill pilot holes - Drill a pilot hole appropriate for the size lag screw that you are using.
• Attach flange with screws - Use a socket set to screw the lag screw into place.

Hardware

The hardware you use for mounting handrails depends on the materials you are trying to connect the railing to. See our guide for what types of screws, plugs or throughbolts you would need depending on the rail type you are installing.

• Align bracket and mark holes - Begin by placing the bracket against the wall and marking the holes.
• Drill pilot holes - Drill a Pilot hole for the screws that will be used to attach the brackets. A hammer drill will be required if you are drilling into concrete or masonry.
• Attach brackets to the wall - Attach the brackets with the appropriate kind of screw for the material that you are anchoring into.

Hardware

The hardware you use for mounting handrails depends on the materials you are trying to connect the railing onto. See our guide for what types of screws, plugs or through-bolts you would need depending on the rail type you are installing.

In most cases, this is as simple as slipping the upright into the base flange and tightening the set screws in the fittings. Use a level to ensure that the post is plumb.

This will be different for each kind of railing. The key here is not to attach the fitting too tightly. Attach the bracket or fitting just enough, so that adjustments can be made. You will probably not want to make your final tightening until after the railing has been attached.

When it comes to the differences in the handrail kits, attaching the rail to the handrail brackets is where there is the most diversity. Some railings will be much easier to attach than others.

• Attaching directly to the fitting - Some railings were meant to slip through a hole in a fitting. If this is case, then the job is easy! Simply slip the tube through the hole in the fitting and tighten down the set screw.
• Drilling into tube - Some railing brackets are designed to connect to the tube with screws. If this is the case, then make pilot holes with a drill before attempting to screw into the tube. Even if your screws are "self-drilling" we recommend making a pilot hole. Pilot holes can be made by aligning the grab rail on the brackets and using a marker to mark each hole. Once the hole is marked, take the railing off the brackets and pre-drill the holes in a stable location. After you have made the pilot holes, set the railing on the brackets and attach with the appropriate screws.

Hardware

The hardware you use for mounting handrails depends on the materials you are trying to connect the railing to. See our guide for what types of screws, plugs or throughbolts you would need depending on the rail type you are installing.

Once your entire handrail is assembled, you'll want to tap the tube caps into any exposed ends of the rails and posts. It is best to do this with a rubber mallet. If you don't have a rubber mallet, then cover the cap with a piece of cardboard to protect the metal from scratches while you tap it in with a standard hammer.